This site brought to you by the home care specialists at ServiceMaster Clean. What's New!

Find It Here

Give the Gift of Time

Freebies

Online Calculating

 


Home Page
Home Tips
Appliances
Cleaning
DIY Books
Electrical
Furniture
Lawn Care
Mechanical
Moving
Pests
Plumbing
Safety
Seasonal
Structure
Disaster
Warranty

Find An Expert
Calculators
The Store
Freebies
Virtual Home Tour

Bathroom

Face Lift for Fixtures
Stains and Mineral Deposits
Rust Stains
Small Scratches and Chips
Large Chips
Separated Bathtub-Wall Joint
Tiled Walls
Replacing Ceramic Tiles
Mending Chipped Fixtures
Sealing A Tub-Wall Joint

 

Face Lift for Fixtures

As time goes by, moisture and daily use take their toil on plumbing fixtures. Porcelain and fiberglass surfaces can dull, discolor, or become damaged. Separations can appear where the bathtub joins the wall. Before you put a stained, chipped, or cracked fixture out to pasture, consider giving it a face-lift with some bleach, touch up paint, glue, or caulk. You can even have it professionally recoated. Often, such repairs can extend the life of an aging fixture, postponing an expensive replacement.

Stains and Mineral Deposits

You can renew a fixture by removing discolorations, rust stains, and mineral deposits. An effective treatment for discolorations and rust stains is a liquid chlorine bleach solution. Commercial products are available to remove mineral deposits. Polish with a mixture of cream of tartar and peroxide to improve the appearance of an enameled fixture.

Rust Stains

To remove rust stains from porcelain or fiberglass, try rubbing the stain with a cut lemon, or try applying lemon juice. If the fixture is badly stained, use a 5 percent solution of oxalic acid or a 10 percent solution of hydrochloric acid. Apply the acid solution with a cloth and leave it on only a second or two; then rinse it off thoroughly. Be sure to protect your skin and eyes by wearing rubber or plastic gloves and protective goggles.

Small Scratches and Chips

You can cover a small scratched or chipped area of porcelain or fiberglass by building up thin coats of enamel paint or epoxy paint, available in touch-up kits in many colors to match the color of your fixture.

  • Before applying the paint, clean the surface of the damaged area with alcohol.
  • Check that the area is clean, dry, and dust free.
  • Using a small brush, apply several coats of touch-up paint, blending it toward the edges of the scratch or chip.
  • Allow the paint to dry for an hour between coats.
  • Keep he touched-up area dry for 24 hours.
  • Don't expect perfection. You may be able to see where the touch-up was done once the paint dries.

Large Chips

If the corner or edge of a porcelain or fiberglass fixture has broken off and you have the chip, you can glue it back in place with epoxy resin.

  • Be sure the surfaces are entirely clean and dry.
  • Depending on the label directions, coat one or both surfaces with adhesive and press the pieces together firmly.
  • Use masking tape to secure the repair for at least an hour.
  • Keep the area dry overnight.

Separated Bathtub-Wall Joint

One of the most common bathroom repairs is sealing cracks in the joints between the bathtub and the wall. It's a chore you'll have to repeat every year or so because the weight of the tub changes as it's filled and emptied again and again. The simplest way to seal the troublesome joint is with flexible waterproof caulking compound, sometimes called plastic tub and tile sealer. The sealer comes in a tube.

  • Before applying the sealer, scrape away the old caulking.
  • Clean and dry the area thoroughly to ensure a good seal.
  • Holding the tube at a 45 degree angle, slowly squeeze the sealer into the joint, using a steady, continuous motion.
  • If you can do each side of the tub without stopping, the line of caulking will be smoother and neater.
  • Wait at least 24 hours before using the bathtub.

If you find that caulking won't last in the bathtub wall joint, you can apply quarter round ceramic edging tiles. Available in kits, the tiles are installed around the rim of the tub, using the caulking compound just described as an adhesive. Be sue to scrape away old caulking and clean and dry the area before you begin.

Tiled Walls

When ceramic tiles get cracked, chipped or work loose from the wall, it's time to replace them. Before you refasten any loose tiles, check underneath. A common cause of loosening is moisture under the tiles. Be sure to correct the problem, such as a leaking pipe or roof, and check that the substructure is in good condition.

Replacing Ceramic Tiles

These directions apply to floors, countertops and walls. They only apply to tiles installed in a thin set mastic or mortar type adhesive, not the thick mortar bed professionals use.

  • When you replace tiles, be sure to choose the appropriate mastic for the area you're tiling.
  • If you're using water-resistant mastic, work in a well-ventilated area.
  • In addition to mastic, you'll need patching plaster to create a base for the new tiles, latex primer and grout for filling the spaces between tiles.
  • If you don't have spare tiles to replace chipped or broken ones, take a sample to a tile dealer, manufacturer, or contractor. They may have "bone piles" of old and discontinued tiles where you can find a match.
  • Safety Tip: When chipping out old tiles, be sure to wear goggles to protect your eyes from flying tile fragments.

Replace using these steps:

  1. Remove grout from the joints around a damaged tile with a lever-type can opener, unless the joints are wider than 1/8 inch-then chip them out at Step 4.
  2. Using a glass cutter and a steel straightedge, heavily score an X across the face of the tile from corners to corners through the center.
  3. Punch a hole through the center of the damaged tile with a hammer and nail-set. Be careful not to damage the backing as you work.
  4. Chip out the tile from the center with a soft headed steel hammer and cold chisel using light, rapid blows.
  5. Clean the area behind tile, removing all old adhesive and grout. Use sandpaper to smooth rough spots. Dust.
  6. Fill the backing with patching plaster if necessary to level the backing. When dry, paint with latex primer.
  7. Apply mastic to the back of the tile with a putty knife when the primer is dry. Keep the mastic 1/2 inch from the edges.
  8. Center the tile and, using a hammer and wood block, gently tap it flush with the surface. Wait 24 hours before grouting.
  9. Fill the joints with grout, using a damp sponge or cloth. Smooth the joints with a wet finger. Sponge off excess grout.

Mending Chipped Fixtures

Apply enamel or epoxy touchup paint over a small scratch or chip. If possible, glue the chip back on with epoxy resin.

Sealing A Tub-Wall Joint

Seal a tub-wall separation with a continuous bead of caulking or install quarter-round ceramic edging tiles.

1-888-762-5326 Need Help?  | 
Privacy Statement
Copyright © 1998-2008 ServiceMaster Clean

Terminix®    Merry Maids®   TruGreen®   ServiceMaster Clean®
American Home Shield®    Furniture Medic®   AmeriSpec®

Brand names are registered trademarks of The ServiceMaster Company and its affiliates.